But, for whatever reason, your home’s or business’s basement does leak.  And, you could use this space for storage.  Leaks are often very difficult to repair because it’s really hard to determine their source.

But, we do have some guidelines that can help, and if it’s just too much for you, keep in mind you can always ask for help from professionals.

Why is my Basement Leaking?

There are many different reasons a basement could leak.  Before your foundation was poured and the concrete walls were installed, a hole larger than the foundation was dug.  Then the foundation was poured and walls were installed.  Between the walls and the hard, undisturbed soil, there was a gap several inches wide.  This gap was then filled with loose rocks and soil.

This soil is called “backfill” soil, and it will never be as hard as the undisturbed soil surrounding it.  When water flows around the foundation, it can fill the porous spaces in the backfill soil much more easily than it can in the harder undisturbed soil.  The water then leaks through every opening and crack imaginable.

The additional weight of the water in the backfill soil puts extra pressure on your basement’s concrete walls.  The walls then crack in various places, and you have leaks!

How do You Repair Your Leaks?

When repairing basement leaks, you have several different approaches.  Here is each approach and how you can use each to repair concrete in a basement leak:

Negative side sealant – This strategy involves using waterproof pain or hydraulic cement to coat the interior basement wall.  All cracks will be sealed, and moisture will not be allowed through.  This solution does not work permanently, however.

Exterior excavation – This involves digging all the way down to the concrete footing from the outside.  Next, a waterproofing membrane is applied and a protective drainage board is laid over it.  However, this solution does not work permanently either.

Interior footing drains – These are the same as exterior excavation, except they are done from the inside on the concrete surface.  And again, it is not a permanent solution.

Baseboard system – Weep holes are drilled in the floor/wall joint or in the wall itself.  Next a vinyl baseboard is epoxied to the floor.  The water is then  directed into a sump pump system, which drains the water from the area through a pipe.  This solution is only used with monolithic floors or other rare instances.

WaterGuard Basement Waterproofing System – This is the best overall solution.  This system remains totally free of clogs and drains water effectively and reliably away from the concrete floor.  Installing a sump pump and feed pipe from the WaterGuard is highly recommended.  This solution is permanent, and it works in every situation.

Call a Professional!

Repairing concrete on your own is incredibly difficult and challenging to do.  Instead, talk with a professional who can help you find the right solution and implement it correctly the first time!

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 How do You Fix Spalling Concrete?

Concrete spalling is not the easiest do-it-yourself fix.  If spalling is affecting your driveway, causing it to crack all the way through, then only a professional will be able to perform the repair.

However, if the damage is not that far along yet, the repair may be something you can do yourself.  You may end up with a “good enough” level of quality doing it on your own, when a professional contractor could make the job look great.  Ultimately, the choice is up to you, and if you decide to take on the job yourself, this is what you’ll need to do:

Before you even begin your concrete repair job, make sure air temperatures will remain above 50 degrees eight hours after you pour your concrete, and above 32 degrees for 24 hours after that.

To begin repairing your concrete, remove all dirt and debris.  Use a broom to brush your concrete surface clean.  Pull out any weeds in any of the cracks of your concrete, and remove any weeds nearby the edges.

Next, it is important to pressure wash your concrete in order to thoroughly remove as much dirt and debris as possible.  Be sure to only work in one direction so the area becomes as clean as is possible.

Third, tape off any areas you don’t want your new concrete to touch.  One example would be where your bottom step meets your concrete driveway.  If you’re resurfacing indoor concrete, tape off the bottom three feet of your walls.

Fourth, mix your concrete.  Be sure to only mix enough concrete that you can use in about 20 to 30 minutes.  For the average person, this equals about one 40-pound bag, which covers about 35 square feet.  Place the concrete powder in a wheelbarrow or cement mixer, and add water a little at a time until your concrete is equal in consistency to peanut butter.

Next, roll on a layer of bonding agent.  Use two trowels, one to lean on with one hand while you work with the other hand.  Trowel the concrete mixture evenly over the selected surface.  Use the edge of the trowel to smooth the concrete’s surface.  This is probably the most difficult part of the concrete restoration process, and the skills of a professional can make a noticeable difference at this point.  While spreading the mixture, use any leftover concrete mix that is getting kind of hard to fill in any holes.

Before the first coat dries, add a second coat of concrete in the same way as the first.  The purpose of the second coat is to give your concrete a more attractive and finished look.  This time, however, instead of a peanut butter consistency, you’ll want to mix your concrete to a wetter consistency similar to pancake batter.

Before you apply your second coat, test out your mixture to ensure it is at the right consistency.  Lay just a little down on your first coat, and run a concrete broom over it.  If little balls form, the concrete is too dry.  All you need to do is spray on a little water to dampen the first coat more.

Finally, drag your second mixture across the entire concrete surface using a concrete broom.  Spray more water on if necessary.  Finish applying this coat to the entire concrete area, and use a nose tool and cove tool to shape your steps, if you are working on them in this case.

If You’re Confused or Overwhelmed ask for the Help of a Professional 

While you can certainly do this job repairing spalling concrete on your own, it takes less time and you’ll end up with the best product if you use the services of a professional concrete contractor.

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It’s also possible to achieve an expensive-looking marble, stone, or granite look, and acid staining is much more affordable than actually purchasing those materials.

If you want a basic design that does the job, this is something you can do yourself. However, by hiring a professional contractor, you will receive a much more attractive final product.

If you prefer to do the job yourself, or if you simply are curious how the process works, here are the steps to follow during the process:

1. Make sure the surface where you will be staining is clean. If you’re doing this job inside, remove all trim. Clean the concrete surface to the best of your ability so that no unwanted markings, glue, or other sticky substances and discolorations are visible.
2. Test your stain in a small and hard-to-notice location. Acid stains react differently on different surfaces, and you never really know what the final result will be until you see it yourself. Test out your acid stain until you receive the look you desire.
   Make sure the process you use to apply this little bit of stain resembles the process you will use to cover the whole floor. Differences in technique can lead to different results.
3. If working inside, cover the bottom 3 feet of your walls with masking paper. If you accidentally splash the acid stain on your walls, you’ll cause damage that takes time and money to repair.It’s best just to be cautious and prepared for the worst possible scenario.
4. Mix your stain. Ensure you are wearing all necessary protective gear and mix
   your acid stain as directed by the product label.

   In general, you’ll want to mix your stain in a well-ventilated area – outdoors if possible. Also, test out your mixture before applying a coat.

5. Apply your acid stain. When applying your stain, spray randomly around the floor, but be sure to apply an event amount of the product to the entire floor.

   Be sure not to apply too much, as this can cause puddles that will ruin the final look of your job. Continue applying coats until you have the look you desire and let the floor dry.

6. Neutralize the surface by applying a solution of four parts water and one part ammonia to the floor. Allow the floor to dry.
7. While the floor is drying, mop it and vacuum any remaining water.
8. Seal the floor. Applying several thin coats of sealant helps to protect your floor from the every day wear and tear it can take. It also improves the look.
9. If this job was done inside, remove your masking paper and reinstall your trim.

As you can see, doing a concrete acid stain job requires a fair amount of work and a little know-how. If you’re brave, go ahead and try it yourself. But, if you’re not feeling up to the task, certainly feel free to let a professional help you!

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1. Advantages To Concrete Staining – How to Properly Stain Concrete
2. Acid Etching of Concrete to Prepare Concrete Surfaces

You’ve been on the fence and have somewhat been thinking about polishing the concrete flooring in your home or business.  Today, we would like to show you why it’s time to jump off the fence and begin polishing your concrete flooring.

Here are some reasons why you might want to begin polishing the surface of your concrete sooner rather than later:

• Polishing helps strengthen the surface of your concrete
• Floor maintenance and cleaning costs are lowered
• Your floor gains a much more attractive look because the polish reflects light, creating a much more professional look.
• Tile and other flooring types don’t allow your floor to breathe and cause issues if moisture begins to develop in the concrete.  You won’t experience these issues if your concrete is polished and has no covering.

How to Polish a Concrete Floor

In order to effectively polish your concrete floor, it’s important to perform the polishing process in stages.  Here are the steps you’ll want to follow in order to take the look of your custom floor to a new level:

1.  Clean

Use a broom or dustpan to clear away all dirt and debris from the floor.  Dirt and debris will only cause more trouble later on, so best to remove them now and make your job much easier.

2.  Mop

Cleaning and vacuuming your floor won’t remove all the dust.  Add a mild cleaning agent to a warm bucket of water and thoroughly mop your concrete floor.  Be sure to dry the floor off before proceeding.

3.  Polish with a Coarse Grit of Around 500

A coarse grit polishing disk will remove any heavily-embedded stains.  Start at one end of your concrete floor and move from side to side until  you finish the floor.  Use circular motions, avoid overlapping, and pay extra attention to stains.

4.  Polish with Fine Grit

Again, use circular motions, avoid overlapping, and work the floor systematically like you did before.  At this point, the surface of your floor should be free from all stains, and it should also have a clean and uniform surface.

5.  Polish with an Extra-Fine Grit Disk

This is the final stage of polishing.  Use a disk with a grit of around 1,500.  Follow the same process as before, but this time, overlap the circular motions you make.

6.  Apply Your Polish

Finally, it’s time to apply your floor polish and give your floor that look you’ve been waiting for!

Hopefully, this article helped you to learn exactly how care for your concrete floor and increase its’ lifespan and your effective usage of the floor.  Concrete is one of the most durable flooring materials available, and using a beautiful concrete polish will make it look like one of the most expensive materials in your building.

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1. Concrete Polishing on Industrial Strength Floors

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1.  Make sure you know what is causing the damage. 

Sometimes, you don’t know what really is causing the damage.  Could there be heavy weight passing over the concrete without your knowledge?  Is weather causing problems?

When you know the cause of the damage, half the battle is over. Otherwise, you might find yourself making the same repair in just a short amount of time.

2.  If the crack is a narrow one, do the following: 

Clear all loose debris from inside and nearby the crack.

Fill the crack with a masonry crack filler sized to fit in a caulk gun.  You can also try vinyl concrete patching compound.  Be sure to level off the filler concrete with the existing concrete.

3.  If the crack is large, the process becomes a little more complex:

In order to effectively repair a larger crack, “undercutting” is necessary.  Undercutting is when you make the crack wider at the bottom than the top in order to strengthen the repair.  Using a hammer and chisel will do the job.

Brush away all loose debris with a wire brush, and wash the area off with water.

Mix the patching compound according to manufacturer specification and apply with a trowel.  Tamp the mixture after application in order to eliminate air pockets.

Smooth the mixture.

When the mixture has set, smooth the surface so that it matches the surrounding concrete.

4.  If the edges of concrete steps have crumbled, do the following:

Remove all debris from the area with a thorough brushing.

Undercut the edges of the damaged area with a hammer and chisel.

Create a makeshift form by securing a piece of wood tightly against the side of the step.  Ensure the top of the wooden form is even with the top of the steps.  Use heavy objects such as bricks to hold the form in place.

The form holds the concrete in place and also acts a guide for smoothing the top of the concrete.

Mix your patching compound as directed by the manufacturer and use a trowel to apply it to the appropriate area.  Tamp the mixture in order to remove air pockets.

Smooth the mixture to be even with the top of the step, using the wooden form as a guide.

When the patch sets, remove the form and brush the patch until it matches the surrounding concrete.

Conclusion

Maintaining concrete is not a difficult task, but repairing it is.  Take the time to properly care for your concrete surfaces and you will save thousands of dollars over the life of your material. If you need to fix broken concrete, research the problem first to find out the best repair method, and only use top quality chemical products.

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Many people experience disappointment after a harsh winter when their new concrete pavement has signs of scaling, the flaking and peeling of the concrete surface. To keep concrete scaling from happening to your new concrete restoration project, follow these steps:

Protect Concrete from Winter

• Do not use calcium or salt on your concrete pavement, and never use products containing ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate (fertilizer). These heavy chemicals are packaged and sold as concrete de-icers, but they will rapidly disintegrate the concrete surface. Salt buildup can significantly discolor and damage concrete.
• Avoid applying deicing chemicals to concrete that is less than two years old. Instead use sand as a substitute for harsh de-icing chemicals.
• Don’t allow excess snow and ice to accumulate on your new concrete slab during the first winter, this will shorten it’s lifespan.
• After the second winter use a concrete sealer to protect from heavy concentrations of salt and chloride that are unavoidable. Sealers can protect against the moderate use of chemical de-icers.
• Use a hose to wash off the accumulation of salt deposits on newly placed driveways and garage slabs.

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Acid Etching of concrete is a method for commercial concrete surface preparation that will remove most surface deposits on concrete.

Shot blasting is another method to prepare concrete surfaces but requires special equipment and trained professionals, special concrete contractors. Acid etching is the best surface preparation method available for do it yourself homeowners.

The following guidelines are suggested to acid etch your concrete.

Concrete acid etching will not remove sealers or concrete surfaces. They must be removed mechanically through shotblasting, sandblasting, or scarifying. Sealers that soak deep into the concrete may not be removable at all.

Acid etching is used for surface preparation of home shops, garages, basements, and general concrete.
If the concrete is contaminated with oils or grease, you must clean the surface with an alkali detergent cleaner and commercial degreaser, or use detergent in combination with a steam cleaner.

Types of Acid Etching Products

HYDROCHLORIC ACID
Sold in 31% solutions. Dilute to 10%-15%. Use 1 gallon for every 40-50 square feet. A dangerous acid with VERY strong fumes, recommended for professional concrete contractors only.

SULFAMIC ACID
A white powder dissolved in hot water, less dangerous to work with than the other acids and the best choice for non professionals. Mix one pound of Sulfamic Acid with 1 gallon of hot water to treat 300 square feet of concrete.

PHOSPHORIC ACID
Produces less fumes and can be used around acid vulnerable metals such as carbon or galvanized steel. Use a solution of 20% – 40% Phosphoric Acid.

Concrete Etching Procedure

1. Degrease and seal contaminated concrete areas, sand, degloss, strip or remove all existing coatings. Well bonded existing coatings can remain in place.
2. Clean concrete floors with a detergent and rinse throughly.
3.  Make the floor damp using tap water and examine where the water beads up on the exposed concrete. After completing the surface preparation retest with more water. Do not coat the area until water does not bead up.
4. Apply the acid solution evenly using a sprinkling can or acid tolerant pump spray unit.
5.  Work the acid solution into the concrete with a stiff bristle broom or scrubber.
6.   Let the acid etching solution sit for 5 – 10 minutes.
7.   Vacuum to remove the excess acid on the etched concrete.
8.   Before the acid dries on the concrete surface, remove residue with water hose or high pressure water sprayer and vacuum the remains.
9.   Neutralize any acid residue on the etched concrete with a diluted Simple Green solution. Do not use diluted liquid bleach as bleach and acids can have a dangerous chemical reaction. Rinse the entire area throughly with water. Improperly neutralizing the acid will damage the entire process.
10.    Wash the surface with a mineral/acid salt remover. Salts on the concrete surface do not easily rinse and lead to adhesion problems as they absorb moisture becoming corrosive liquids and/or as crystals grow on the surface. Hidden salts can be removed with a salt remover product. If you apply this product, it must be rinsed off well as it dissolves the salts. Watch for salt contamination which can cause disbonding of your new surface.
11.  Let the concrete dry and again sweep clean of any dust, dirt, and particles from the acid etching process.
12.   Seal the coat with our Glaze Coat – one part acrylic for that shiny, dust free surface or coat the floor with a light gray water based epoxy coating/primer.

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Concrete staining is a more viable, long term solution over your floors than paint or concrete epoxy, and provides more options for decoration.

You can do concrete stain for approximately $.50 per sq/ft and have superior durability, ease of cleaning, and a posh look of real stone or marble.

Stained concrete uses a mixture of acid, metallic salts, and special materials to cause a chemical reaction in the concrete that changes it’s composition and color. Do not use cheap concrete stains that are just film applications, as these will wear out quickly and have a less polished finish.

The steps to getting your concrete surface ready to accept the stain includes: getting materials and equipment, testing the stain, fixing surface imperfections, and cleaning the entire area.

Scrapers are needed to remove existing blemishes and imperfections, which will show through the new stain application. Mask off areas that should not receive the acid stain with tape and plastic covering. A high quality sprayer is the best way to apply the stain and a paint roller is used to apply the final sealer. After the staining and sealing process is complete use Acrylic floor wax for maintenance to keep a high quality sheen on your surface. Surfaces that have an existing a concrete sealers are not be stainable and when you are cleaning the surface you must not use an acid wash, as this will cause a reaction with the top layer of your floor, removing the ability of concrete to absorb the new chemicals.

Stained concrete is the result of a complex chemical reaction, and the results will be different for each unique surface so you must test the staining application first – do not rely on manufacturers color charts. Get samples from the acid stain manufactures and select an area that is out of sight, such as a closet to use for testing. Clean and mask off the area then apply a solution 1:1 diluted of the concrete acid stain/water mix.

Repairing the concrete surface may be necessary if it is old concrete with lots of cracks and stains. Concrete staining is similar to wood staining, and if the wood is not sanded, smooth and free of blemishes the final job will not look good.

If you have concrete cracks, fill them with concrete glue, then fill the crack with anchoring cement and let it dry. Scrape away the high spots and sand the new surface until it is smooth.

Scrape off all imperfections and remove any unwanted stains. Rust stains can be removed with CLR, and any glue or foreign substance on the concrete surface should be washed or scraped away.

Scrub the concrete surface with a TSP and water mixture and vacuum all areas to ensure any remaining debris is gone. Before applying the stain make sure the surface is completely dry.

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Special power cleaning tools are used to efficiently renew the concrete. Then a sealant can be applied, which will protect the underlying surface from water and oil stains, which would sink in, on unprotected concrete. However, in certain extreme circumstances concrete repair is the only way to restore concrete to its original condition.

Concrete restoration can help with many different cleaning and sealing issues, as well as stabilizing a building foundation and fixing broken or cracked concrete. One common problem with concrete is that cracks will often form. The cracks can develop for a variety of reasons including stress fractures, water damage and heavy use.

It is recommended that they be repaired as soon as they are noticed, so that they will not expand. One small crack can cause water damage, erosion and moisture penetration. Movement and structural cracks are another problem that can be fixed through concrete restoration. Deteriorated or pitted surfaces can be remedied with a special based polymer mortar, which can also help to repair delaminated and spalled surfaces.

If you need a concrete job done in a hurry, then a Perma-Patch can be applied, which will set in about 15 to 20 minutes, and allow light traffic in about an hour.

If any troubles with your concrete arise or a just a deep cleaning is needed contact us to help you make your concrete look like it was just poured.

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