Initially, polished concrete floors were almost exclusively found in big box retail stores like Costco and Home Depot. Now it is not surprising to see these floor systems in restaurants, shopping malls, and medical facilities. Not only are commercial organizations selecting concrete polishing over traditional flooring options, but educational institutions are also making a large push to install concrete floors as a cost effective solution that will last for decades of hard use.

Many educational facilities (elementary, high school, and university), are often selecting polished concrete for their lobbies, classrooms, and athletic facilities during renovations and new construction. In addition to providing a low-cost flooring solution, these polished floors are “green” and can help create LEED certified buildings. Being that an existing substrate is used as the floor of contact, the polished concrete floors support sustainability, promote green initiatives, and provide a good-looking long-lasting durable surface.

As polished concrete floors advance green building initiatives, the polished concrete floors create a positive interior climate allowing for thermal mass that provides a reduction in energy use. With the price and demand for energy soaring, it is great to know that an aesthetically appealing floor can lower energy consumption in buildings and save lots of money for Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC).

The cost of installing concrete flooring starts at around 2.50 per square foot for base level materials, up to 15 or more per square foot for decorative sandblasting, advanced etching, acid staining, faux techniques, complex sawcut patterns, stenciling, multiple coats of polish or engraving. Your budget for concrete flooring depends on the finish required and the intricacy of the details in the final surface.

Related Posts:

1. Concrete Polishing on Industrial Strength Floors
2. Why Use Concrete Epoxy Seal Coatings for Commercial Flooring

A great option is a concrete overlay, which are decorative fine coats of concrete that morph concrete surfaces into works of creative art. Overlays are most normally applied to floors, and can be installed indoors or outdoors.

Steps To Install a Decorative Concrete Overlay

1. Clean the area off thoroughly. Use a broom and scrape away all loose material – you don’t want to start off wrong and ruin your overlay right away! Keep in mind to use painter’s tape to protect the edges of your walls. You may also need a couple of feet of plastic to protect the bottom portion of your walls.
   Spray or pour polymer on the floor, and make sure it is distributed evenly across the surface. Polymer is poured and mixed in a 5-gallon bucket – you will mix it to approximately the consistency of pancakes. The whole process takes about an hour for an area of 500 square feet. Allow the polymer to dry, which takes approximately 1 hour, or perhaps a little longer, just to be safe.
2. Prime the whole floor again and allow it to dry. While the floor is drying, set up your mixing area. You will need a drill, mixing paddle, 2 five gallon buckets, a 5-foot by 7-foot tarp to protect your floor, knee pads, and a squeegee to spread the mix.
3. Pour the polymer into one of your buckets, add the desired color and mix for several seconds. Slowly add cement and mix both products until no lumps are visible. After the mix is at the right consistency, pour a 2-3 foot diameter of product on your floor. Spread it evenly and thin. A 500 square foot floor should take about an hour to complete. Allow the floor to dry for 5 hours.
4. Sand any drip marks or high spots down with 100-120 grit sandpaper. Apply the second coat of decorative product, and make sure it is finer and wetter.
5. Finally, apply 2 coats of concrete sealer – acrylic works best. Sealers work best when using a sprayer and applying thin coats. Allow 2-3 hours of dry time between each coat.
6. Apply the finish coats. If the finish coat is 30% solid, you will need to apply 2 coats to the concrete. If your finish coat is 25% solid, you may need to apply 5-6 coats. Wax when completed.

For a 1000 square foot floor, it will take about 10 hours of actual work, with lots of dry time in between coats. The total cost of installing a stamped concrete overlay is approximately $1.50 per square foot.

Related Posts:

1. Advantages of Using Decorative Concrete Overlays

This current trend has re-opened the door to repair and renovation as well as increased awareness of concrete restoration needs.

Additionally, much of the infrastructure within our country and abroad is due for an upgrade. We can look at the many dams requiring modifications, bridges that are the life line of cross-country transportation needing structural strengthening, and historical government buildings requiring repair for their ensured preservation. As we look to these needs, we must address the structural issues at hand for safety, for security, and for the preservation of the many concrete buildings, dams, and bridges that have become iconic in nature.

Concrete Renovation

Renovating existing structures brings many challenging elements to the table, yet there are solutions. A major issue faced in renovating is changing the intended use of the concrete structure or modifying the concrete design to bring the building from the initial designed use up to current use needs, municipal code or user required capabilities.

Many considerations must be made in the design giving special attention to the concrete load carrying capacity of the building, parking structure, warehouse, etc. Once the new need and load is determined, the engineer may call for structural strengthening using various mediums. On many occasions, repair work is mandatory to regain the structural integrity of the concrete that is being restored. This repair work may come in the form of spall repair, epoxy injection, or modifying expansion joint systems in a parking garage to provide a safe and usable environment.

Not only are concrete structures today requiring repair, they are also requiring protection. Many owners are deciding to strengthen their structures, to be proactive, in the event we face a natural disaster such as an earthquake as experience in Japan. Our firm has recently been contacted by Japanese investment property owners seeking professional advice and services as they have an “increased need for robust structural reinforcement solutions” due to the recent earthquake.

Special Products

Fiber-Reinforced Polymers (FRP) have been used worldwide for over 20 years in the retrofitting of concrete buildings and provides structural strengthening in both reactive and proactive applications. FRP strengthening is likely to be a common restoration process for the strengthening of concrete structures in Japan and in the United States as well.

Strict Building Codes

It has been reported that the building codes and procedures in place in Japan are very stringent and can be thanked for not causing more devastation despite the magnitude of the earthquake. Whether being proactive in preparing a concrete structure for a natural disaster or responding to wear on a building due to time and the elements, concrete restoration is critical for the longevity of all concrete structures. Spalling concrete, cracked concrete, and structural retrofit requirements must be addressed to protect the investment, to preserve the structure, and to ensure the safety of those in and around the concrete structure.

We, Elite Concrete Restoration, have been involved in many repair and renovation projects both domestically and internationally and have the experience, professionalism, and expertise to provide you with the repair and renovation services unique to your needs.

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1. Types of Concrete Restoration and Available Concrete Repair Options

Self compacting concretes (SCC) are distinguished by their special fresh concrete properties. However, self compacting properties can only be achieved by persistent optimization of the starting materials and of the production method. When SCC is used as ready-mixed concrete it is important that the concrete still exhibits the required fresh concrete properties at the time when it is placed.

The time span between end of mixing and start of placement can be more than 90 minutes. Unlike with the use of SCC in precast element plants this means that the changes in workability characteristics with time and as a function of temperature have to
be taken into account.

This requires an adequate understanding of the interactions between the powder materials used, the water content and the mode of operation of the plasticizer. The influence of the concrete starting materials and of the concrete composition on the initial flowability, the stiffening behaviour and the duration of workability were determined by laboratory tests.

Check tests on concretes produced with the same starting materials and the same composition in a ready-mixed concrete plant under realistic conditions show that the laboratory results are also applicable to practical conditions. All the concretes investigated exhibited solid concrete properties which complied with the requirements.

Self compacting concrete (SCC) is a concrete which flows to a virtually uniform level under the influence of gravity without segregation, during which it de-aerates and completely fills the formwork and the spaces between the reinforcement. It is a high-performance concrete with the special property of the fresh concrete of “self compacting”.

As with other high-performance concretes (e.g. highstrength concrete, acid-resistant concrete) the special properties of these concretes which differ from normal concretes are achieved only by systematic optimization both of the individual constituents and of the composition. The flowability and mix stability of the SCC are determined primarily by the interactions between the powder (cement and additions with a particle diameter < 0.125 mm), water and plasticizer. The gradation of the individual size groups in the overall grading curve also affects the property of the concrete of not being blocked by the reinforcement.

It has been found that, in contrast to vibrated concrete, the workability properties required for self compaction cannot be
maintained relatively easily over a fairly long period. Fluctuations in the workability of vibrated concrete can be largely offset by the intensity of vibration applied during placement, but this is not possible with SCC. The effects of production and transport on the workability properties of SCC must therefore be taken into account in the initial testing.

SCC in a precast element plant, for example, is normally placed about 10 min to 30 min after mixing but with ready-mixed concrete this time span is often 30 min up to 120 min. In addition, it is usually also necessary to provide a very large number of individual mixes with substantially the same workability properties under very diverse conditions on the building site for a cast-in-place concrete component. The additional influencing factors are, among others, the sharply fluctuating weather conditions (temperature, rate of water evaporation) and the fact that the concrete already present in the component must have the same workability properties as the newly delivered concrete. Interruptions in the supply can therefore have worse consequences than with vibrated concrete.

Also crucial is the question of the means of correction available on the building site if the delivered SCC does not meet the requirements. Dependable production of SCC as ready-mixed concrete using the constituent materials and equipment available at the concrete plant is currently being investigated at the Research Institute of the Cement Industry in a joint research project with the FTB (Ready-mixed Concrete Research Association) which is financing the investigations.

This report deals with investigations into the following questions:

• effects of small deviations in the water addition on the initial
  flow behaviour
• stiffening behaviour as a function of the quantities of water and
  plasticizer added
• corrections that can be carried out at the building site by addition of plasticizer or water while maintaining adequate mix stability
  The investigations carried out on laboratory concretes were checked by investigations on concretes produced in a ready-mixed
  concrete plant.

The rheological properties of the powder suspension, consisting of cement, concrete additions, mixing water and plasticizer, are determined by the water/solids ratio and the plasticizer content. The planned quantity of mixing water should be at least as high as the
saturation water content. This is the water content that is necessary to wet the surfaces of the solid particles and to fill the voids in the particulate mass of powder.

Read the full abstract of the properties of using self compacting concrete and ready mixed concrete.

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Or perhaps your favorite concrete garden gnome is missing his hat or even, heaven forbid, an arm? If you have any piece of concrete garden décor in dire need of repair, then read on.

Many things can bring damage to concrete birdbaths or garden statues. The most common perpetrator is weather. Water can work its way into small crevices and freeze, thus transforming the small crevice into a large crevice. Whether your concrete birdbath or concrete statue fell victim to ice or a croquet game gone wild, below are the answers you need for the repair process.

REPAIRING CONCRETE BIRDBATHS

Concrete repair is not as daunting a task as it might seem. In fact, it’s pretty easy.  Here are the materials you will need to repair a birdbath:

• Silicone concrete sealant (For repairing leaky birdbaths)
• Epoxy glue for concrete (For repairing with birdbaths with serious damage.

The first thing you’ll need to do is determine the extent of the damage. If it’s just a leaky birdbath then the repair is simple. All you’ll need to do is give the birdbath a good cleaning. Then, when the birdbath is COMPLETELY DRY, apply the silicone concrete sealant to the cracks by forcing it into the cracks and creating a good seal. Let it dry completely – then it should be good to go.

If the birdbath is broken into several pieces, then it’s best to use epoxy glue. Do not try to use concrete to glue the pieces back together – it won’t work, so don’t waste your time.

Once the birdbath is thoroughly cleaned and COMPLETELY DRY, then mix the epoxy glue as indicated on the packaging. Once you have the epoxy glue correctly mixed, simply apply it to the damaged areas, clamping them together until the glue is completely dry.  Remember; the more careful you are with the application, the less visible the glue will appear once it is dry.

REPAIRING CONCRETE STATUES

Garden statues can be a bit trickier to repair than birdbaths. However, they add such unique additions to any lawn or garden that they are definitely worth the attempt.  Besides a little elbow grease and patience, here’s what you’ll need:

• Portland cement
• Scrub brush
• Bleach
• Hot water
• Palette knife
• 1 gallon container to mix the cement
• Spray bottle
• Plastic wrap

Step 1: Prepare the concrete statue

Mix a small amount of bleach with hot water and use the scrub brush to remove any dirt or grime. The bleach will kill any moss or algae that may be present.  Let the statue DRY COMPLETELY before attempting the following steps. Note: This may take several days, so be patient!

Step 2:  Mix the cement

First, mix the Portland cement with the appropriate amount of water as indicated on the packaging. Screen filter the cement, removing lumps to improve the consistency.  The cement should have the consistency of grout.

Step 3: Repair

Dampen any cracks or blemishes with water and make sure to remove any loose bites of concrete or debris. Apply the cement/paint mixture with a palette knife, smoothing it with a wet finger. Let this dry for 2 hours, then moisten the area with a mist of water from a spray bottle and cover with plastic wrap.  Remove wrap and re-mist once a day for 5 days. Keep the area covered in plastic wrap for the entire duration. Note: Use a thicker mix to repair chips and dings.

If you’re feeling ambitious, you can mix the cement with exterior flat latex house paint and re-surface the entire statue to ensure an excellent, consistent finish. (1/3 part Portland cement/water, 2/3 part paint.

Remember, patience is the key to repairing delicate concrete lawn fixtures. Good luck!

Related Posts:

1. How You Can Fix a Cement Garden Statue or Concrete Birdbath

Or perhaps your favorite garden gnome is missing his hat or even, heaven forbid, an arm? If you have any piece of concrete garden décor in dire need of repair, then read on.

Many things can bring damage to concrete birdbaths or garden statues. The most common perpetrator is weather. Water can work its way into small crevices and freeze, thus transforming the small crevice into a large crevice. Whether your concrete birdbath or concrete statue fell victim to ice or a croquet game gone wild, below are the answers you need for the repair process.

REPAIRING CONCRETE BIRDBATHS

Cement repair is not as daunting a task as it might seem. In fact, it’s pretty easy.  Here are the materials you will need to repair a birdbath:

• Silicone concrete sealant (For repairing leaky birdbaths)
• Epoxy glue for concrete (For repairing with birdbaths with serious damage.

The first thing you’ll need to do is determine the extent of the damage. If it’s just a leaky birdbath then the repair is simple. All you’ll need to do is give the birdbath a good cleaning. Then, when the birdbath is COMPLETELY DRY, apply the silicone concrete sealant to the cracks by forcing it into the cracks and creating a good seal. Let it dry completely – then it should be good to go.

If the birdbath is broken into several pieces, then it’s best to use epoxy glue. Do not try to use concrete to glue the pieces back together – it won’t work, so don’t waste your time.

Once the birdbath is thoroughly cleaned and COMPLETELY DRY, then mix the epoxy glue as indicated on the packaging. Once you have the epoxy glue correctly mixed, simply apply it to the damaged areas, clamping them together until the glue is completely dry.  Remember; the more careful you are with the application, the less visible the glue will appear once it is dry.

REPAIRING CONCRETE STATUES

Garden statues can be a bit trickier to repair than birdbaths. However, they add such unique additions to any lawn or garden that they are definitely worth the attempt.  Besides a little elbow grease and patience, here’s what you’ll need:

• Portland cement
• Scrub brush
• Bleach
• Hot water
• Palette knife
• 1 gallon container to mix the cement
• Spray bottle
• Plastic wrap

Step 1: Prepare the concrete statue

Mix a small amount of bleach with hot water and use the scrub brush to remove any dirt or grime. The bleach will kill any moss or algae that may be present.  Let the statue DRY COMPLETELY before attempting the following steps. Note: This may take several days, so be patient!

Step 2:  Mix the cement

First, mix the Portland cement with the appropriate amount of water as indicated on the packaging. Screen filter the cement, removing lumps to improve the consistency.  The cement should have the consistency of grout.

Step 3: Repair

Dampen any cracks or blemishes with water and make sure to remove any loose bites of concrete or debris. Apply the cement/paint mixture with a palette knife, smoothing it with a wet finger. Let this dry for 2 hours, then moisten the area with a mist of water from a spray bottle and cover with plastic wrap.  Remove wrap and re-mist once a day for 5 days. Keep the area covered in plastic wrap for the entire duration. Note: Use a thicker mix to repair chips and dings.

If you’re feeling ambitious, you can mix the cement with exterior flat latex house paint and re-surface the entire statue to ensure an excellent, consistent finish. (1/3 part Portland cement/water, 2/3 part paint.

Remember, patience is the key when repairing concrete.

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• Which pavement option is better in certain situations?
• Which is more cost-effective for your driveway or surface?
• Which lasts longer and has lower maintenance costs?

Which pavement option is better in certain situations?

Concrete tends to hold up much better when used frequently.  However, “frequently” means thousands of large trucks running over the concrete in one day.  Asphalt deteriorates sooner, but only under very frequent usage.

You may want to consider whether or not asphalt driveways are even allowed in your neighborhood.  Even if they are and concrete is the standard, an asphalt driveway may substantially detract from your home’s value.

If your children will use your driveway for recreation, concrete works much better.  Asphalt does soften during hot days, while concrete remains hard.  If you live in a warmer climate, concrete may be a better choice.

Conversely, if you live in a climate that fluctuates between cold and warm throughout the year, keep in mind asphalt’s flexibility reduces the likelihood it will crack during temperature extremes.  Concrete, which is more rigid, has a higher likelihood of cracking during temperature extremes.

The advantage of concrete during warmer temperatures is that it does not absorb heat as readily as asphalt.  Asphalt absorbs heat so well it can burn your skin.

If snow and ice melting is a consideration for you, asphalt, which absorbs heat more readily than concrete, is the superior choice.  On sunny winter days, the increased heat absorbed by asphalt helps to melt snow more quickly.

Which is more cost-effective?

Most individuals only look at the up-front costs.  If you are looking at your short-term costs, an asphalt driveway is typically the better choice, as it costs around half as much as concrete.  However, concrete, which costs a little more in the first place, doesn’t cost as much over the long-run.  When you measure cost over the entire life of the material, you will find the costs of concrete and asphalt very comparable.

Which lasts longer and has lower maintenance costs?

If you’re looking at cost, asphalt costs much less up-front, while concrete and asphalt have a similar cost over the long run.  However, asphalt once again gains an advantage over concrete when it comes time for repairs.  Asphalt repairs are easier to do, and they’re so easy that most homeowners can perform the repairs themselves.

It Depends on What You Want!

In sum, whether you go with concrete or asphalt really depends on your budget.  Asphalt costs less up-front, which means concrete could be out of your range.  If you can afford it up front and want a more attractive and usable surface, a decorative concrete driveway is the way to go.

If you plan on having a professional do all of the repairs, the costs are about the same over the long run.  However, if you are willing to do the repairs yourself, asphalt may be the better option.

Now that you know a little more, consider the longevity, flexibility and cost of concrete to determine if this is the best surface for your driveway.

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A concrete surface is like any other surface; eventually it’s going to get dirty. And since concrete tend to be outdoors or in garages, it can get dirt and stains unlike what you’re used to indoors. While some of those stains may be intimidating, it’s actually not terribly hard to clean. A little bit of elbow grease and some know how can get your concrete looking brand new.

Clean It Right

There are several steps involved, depending on the severity of your stains. While most loose dirt can be easily removed with just water, stains, especially oil stains, will need some more work.

The first thing you should do is sweep the concrete clean and wash it with hot water and a strong detergent. The soap binds with the dirt and hot water will loosen oils and grease and bring them to the surface. A scrub brush can be effective for smaller stains, but larger ones will require a power washer.

Smaller oil stains can also be brought up by mixing something absorbent like clay kitty litter with a solvent like acetone. Mix enough to get the litter wet and sticky, apply it to the stain and cover it with a sheet of plastic wrap. Leave it be for several hours. The poultice will break down and absorb the oil. For deeper or older stains, it may require several applications.

Biological Agents

If you have a large amount of oil on your floor, you can also resort to biological warfare. Special microorganisms have been developed that actually eat oil. They can be applied right to an oil stain, and once they’ve consumed it all, they die. This is the technology they use to clean large oil spills on beaches, and it can work just as well for your driveway.

Seal The Concrete

Now that you’ve got your concrete clean, it’s a great time to seal it. Concrete sealers will make your concrete more resistant to weather exposure, water, grease and oil stains, abrasion and deicing salts. What’s more, they will help to bring out the natural beauty of your concrete and make it easier to clean.

Robert Laitinen is from CLConcretePumpTrucks.com and has poured and cleaned plenty of concrete in his day.

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Because it’s time-consuming and it’s hard, back-breaking labor!  You can do the work on your own, especially if you are the handy type already.  Learn how to do this in detail in the  rest of the article.

1.  First, decide where you want your patio, what shape it will be, and how large it will be.  Consider whether you would like any special effects such as coloring or patterning.

   For this example, keep it simple and say you want a 10 foot by 15 foot patio.  Place the measurements on paper.

2. Call the local city hall and see what permits are required for construction in your area.  Get the necessary permits now, because not doing so can be very costly later on.
3.  Decide what type of cement you want, and consider whether or not you want to mix it yourself or buy it premixed.  Tell the company you are ordering from how large of an area you want to pour, and they will help you determine how much you need.

   Be sure not to order the cement mix until you complete a few of the following steps.

4.  Now, it’s time to set your form.  You can place it on top of the ground, but most people dig to create the proper footing.

    Place your forms around the outside, and be sure to use straight pieces of 2×6 lumber.  Keep them in place with stakes.

5.  The larger your patio, the stronger you will want your equipment to be.  In many localities, you need to have your form inspected before you pour your cement. Contraction joints are required for larger areas.  Place a 1×4 in your form every 5 feet or so.

    You can leave it in if you want, but be sure to use nice, straight lumber.  You can also remove the form while the cement is curing if you want.

6.   Now it’s time to order your cement.  Tell the company the dimensions of your project and they’ll deliver the right amount of cement.  The truck driver will eventually arrive, and will help you pour it.

   Put your rubber boots on and stomp around in the cement to remove any air pockets.

7.   Next, level your cement with a long 2×4.  It must reach from one end of your forms to the other.  Move it back and forth in a sawing motion and level all of the cement overlay with the ground. If you want a smooth finish, use a metal trowel or 2×4 to smooth your cement.

    One option to consider is to go over the cement with a broom.  This will make the surface rough, which makes it easier for people to walk on once it dries.

8.  Finally, let your concrete cure.  It takes nearly three days before your concrete is hard enough to walk on.

    Keep the concrete damp the first and second day by quickly misting it with a water hose twice each day to prevent cracks and uneven drying.

9. Enjoy your new concrete patio and commend yourself on a job well done!

Don’t forget to look at the premium concrete service jobs we have been involved with in the Los Angeles California area.

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But, for whatever reason, your home’s or business’s basement does leak.  And, you could use this space for storage.  Leaks are often very difficult to repair because it’s really hard to determine their source.

But, we do have some guidelines that can help, and if it’s just too much for you, keep in mind you can always ask for help from professionals.

Why is my Basement Leaking?

There are many different reasons a basement could leak.  Before your foundation was poured and the concrete walls were installed, a hole larger than the foundation was dug.  Then the foundation was poured and walls were installed.  Between the walls and the hard, undisturbed soil, there was a gap several inches wide.  This gap was then filled with loose rocks and soil.

This soil is called “backfill” soil, and it will never be as hard as the undisturbed soil surrounding it.  When water flows around the foundation, it can fill the porous spaces in the backfill soil much more easily than it can in the harder undisturbed soil.  The water then leaks through every opening and crack imaginable.

The additional weight of the water in the backfill soil puts extra pressure on your basement’s concrete walls.  The walls then crack in various places, and you have leaks!

How do You Repair Your Leaks?

When repairing basement leaks, you have several different approaches.  Here is each approach and how you can use each to repair concrete in a basement leak:

Negative side sealant – This strategy involves using waterproof pain or hydraulic cement to coat the interior basement wall.  All cracks will be sealed, and moisture will not be allowed through.  This solution does not work permanently, however.

Exterior excavation – This involves digging all the way down to the concrete footing from the outside.  Next, a waterproofing membrane is applied and a protective drainage board is laid over it.  However, this solution does not work permanently either.

Interior footing drains – These are the same as exterior excavation, except they are done from the inside on the concrete surface.  And again, it is not a permanent solution.

Baseboard system – Weep holes are drilled in the floor/wall joint or in the wall itself.  Next a vinyl baseboard is epoxied to the floor.  The water is then  directed into a sump pump system, which drains the water from the area through a pipe.  This solution is only used with monolithic floors or other rare instances.

WaterGuard Basement Waterproofing System – This is the best overall solution.  This system remains totally free of clogs and drains water effectively and reliably away from the concrete floor.  Installing a sump pump and feed pipe from the WaterGuard is highly recommended.  This solution is permanent, and it works in every situation.

Call a Professional!

Repairing concrete on your own is incredibly difficult and challenging to do.  Instead, talk with a professional who can help you find the right solution and implement it correctly the first time!

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